Restaurants in Rome; Cantina Cantarini and Armando al Pantheon

by formerchef on November 25, 2009

Cantina Cantarini

This is a place I came across randomly while doing restaurant research for Rome on Chowhound. Usually I troll their message boards but this recommendation came from an article on their site which had the tagline of “You can get a bad meal in Rome.” This however, was an example of what the writer considered an authentic, non-touristy place, so I filed it away in case we were in that neighborhood at some point. On the day we were headed to visit the Baths of Diocletian, we needed somewhere to have lunch and this little spot was only about 5 blocks away.

After a lengthy, hot bus ride across town, one where the bus veered unexpectedly off the map,  we walk up to the restaurant and I am praying we will find it open. I don’t have a lot of options otherwise in this area, and it’s already getting late for lunch given our little adventure. Fortunately, Cantarini is open and they have a table for us. But it’s tiny and quickly filled. We are the only tourists in evidence here and I like that.

An older gentleman who we think is the owner waits on us. He rattles off the specials in rapid fire Italian. When he walks away from the table, my friend asks me, “what did he say?” I have no idea past the first couple of items, but she says I looked like I understood (and that counts for something, right?).
We order an arugula and tomato salad and a caprese salad along with two penne arrabbiata, a buccatini alla amatricciana, an order of liver, plus sautéed chicory and an order of broccoli. The salads and pastas are both good, especially the arrabbiata which is very flavorful without being overly spicy. I could eat the sautéed chicory every day.


 Those who had the liver (not me) enjoyed it. For dessert, we have panna cotta with chocolate sauce (odd) and one tiramisu (excellent).
The owner’s wife and teenage daughter are there working as well. Teen exasperation is clear in any a language. The girl clearly does not want to be there. We are all amused watching her roll her eyes when asked to do anything, sigh, and begrudgingly make espresso.
Half bottle white wine, 1 L bottle of water and 3 coffees is about 75 euro for four people.
Cantina Cantarini-Piazza Sallustio, 12-Tel: 06 485528 Closed Sundays.

Armando al Pantheon

When we were in Rome last year we had dinner here twice. The first time, because I had read so many great reviews and the second, because we had such a great meal the first time. For this return trip, I made reservations  by emailing them in advance and “reserving” two orders of their famous oxtail which is only served on Thursdays. I’m not going to lie and say this is a “hidden gem” because it’s a well-known spot on the tourist radar. But the service is friendly, the location can’t be beat (a half block from the Pantheon) and the food is consistently very good. I’d say the diners are about half local, half tourist.


Lamb chops; Abbaccio a Scottadito

Unfortunately, by the time our reservation time rolls around this evening, I’m not hungry. I’m not feeling well because (after a little self examination) I figure out I  have the dreaded “Late Afternoon Hangover.” This occurs when one has too much wine at lunch and not enough water. Four hours later I am regretting this. It seemed like such a good idea at the time. I’m told to have a drink which will somehow make it me feel better and we order a nice bottle of organic wine from Sicily. It helps a little.

We order a mixed vegetable antipasti plate and two of their wonderful artichokes alla romana to start. We get two pastas; one, our favorite alla verde with aruguala, cheese and lemon, and one with asparagus and pomegranate. For our main courses we share two orders of oxtail which they only make on Thursdays and I have pre-reserved, an order of the lamb chops, and an order of sautéed chicory.


The oxtail, left, with pine nuts and raisins. The Pasta alla Verde, right, so simple and perfect.

Everything is very, very good. Coffee and Amaro Lucano round out the evening. I’m not sure what the dinner cost because my incredible friend Jessica picked up the tab as a “thank you” for all my trip planning. Thank you Jess, for a lovely meal.
Armando al Pantheon is open daily for Lunch and Dinner, closed Saturday night and all day Sunday. Salita de Crescenzi, 31, tel:06/68803034

For two previous meals at Armando al Pantheon in 2008, please see my travel website wired2theworld; Rome-Day 2 2008 and Rome-Day 5 2008.

For more on Rome from this trip please see Days 4 and 5 of Rome 2009 at wired2theworld.com

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{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Sonia November 25, 2009 at 8:49 am

Yum! I will definitely have to check out these two spots next time we’re in Rome.

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2 maryfranke24 November 25, 2009 at 10:34 am

Nearly three in the morning and I am wide awake. But now after visiting with you visually the special restaurants in Rome, I am hungry, also. Your descriptions along with the fantastic photography make a cup of tea a very dull remedy at this hour.

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3 Lauren November 25, 2009 at 11:33 am

Great food photography! It’s always hard to get good pics in restaurants, but you’ve managed it. Yum.

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4 Jenn AKA The Leftover Queen November 30, 2009 at 8:06 am

Some more drool-worthy meals! YUM! It is true, you CAN get a bad meal in Rome. I am impressed with the photos – not easily done in a restaurant situation!

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5 Akila December 1, 2009 at 2:54 pm

Armando Al Pantheon is one of my favorite restaurants in Rome. We absolutely loved their stuffed artichokes and it inspired the version that is on our blog. Our second favorite Rome restaurant was Da Bafetto for their pizza and then Pierluigi where we had a luscious white truffle pasta. Yum! We can’t wait to make our way back to Italy.

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6 formerchef December 1, 2009 at 8:09 pm

We ate at Da Baffeto last year when we were there. It was pretty good too and we had a prime table right next to the guys making the pizzas. It was so fun to watch them. Sr. Baffetto himself insisted on giving each of us girls a kiss as we left, old dog! My favorite gelateria is right across the street from there, called Frigidarium. Make sure you go there when you get back to Rome.

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7 unmetered hosting December 22, 2009 at 3:57 pm

I really like your writing style, its not generic and extremly long and tedious like a lot of blog posts I read, you get to the point and I really enjoy reading your articles! Oh, and merry Christmas!

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8 Kim January 5, 2010 at 7:32 am

Sounds (and looks!) very good!

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9 cyril July 30, 2010 at 2:35 am

Hello,

I appear: Cyril. I work for Seriousguide, a collection of travel guides in French.
The principle: Seriousguide leans on travel stories published on our platform http://www.seriousguide.fr as first information source for the selection of the contents of the printed travel guides.
We prepare at present a guide on Rome. Our participative platform has just been opened to the public and the journeys which are published by the Internet users there represent an essential source(spring) for our guides papers. However, we also spot(locate) the interesting contents resulting from the other blogs. And so we preset Cantina Cantarini about whom you spoke enthusiastically in your blog and and so we sent one of our spot correspondents to test him(it)!
If we decide to keep(preserve) this activity for our guide Rome, we would like we could quote you as being our information source.
I am anxious to specify you that on no account we are not going to resume(to take back) your narrative, we wish we can only quote you as one in our sources(springs).
You can give me your agreement by e-mail to the following address: cyril.anne@seriousguide.fr
Kind regards,
Cyril for Seriousguide

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