It doesn’t feel like autumn yet here in Southern California, but pears are in the markets and pumpkin spice is everywhere (gah!). In a previous post I wrote about cooking with wine and liquor and this elegant dessert doubles your fun with wine; the pears are poached in it and the sweet custard sauce is made with it as well.
Start with pears that are ripe, but still somewhat firm and unbruised (you want them to be pretty, don’t you?). While it thankfully doesn’t have pumpkin spice, the cinnamon, orange and cardamom do give it a fall/winter/holiday feel. In fact, this dish would work well for a holiday dinner because the pears can be made in advance.
The recipe is highly adaptable; this one uses orange and spices but feel free to swap out with different types of citrus, use a white wine for poaching (though the pears are very pretty when they turn red) or try different spices (allspice, nutmeg, vanilla bean). The same can be said for the sabayon; use any kind of white wine, even champagne. If you use marsala (an Italian sweet wine), you’ll be making the Italian version, called zabaglione.
Tip; if you have whole cardamom pods and are wondering how to get the seeds out and grind them; read this post.
Poaching the pears.
Reducing the poaching liquid to a sauce.
Eggs, orange zest and cardamom for the sabayon.
Making the sabayon.
Pears Poached in Red Wine with Orange Cardamom Sabayon
To poach the pears:
- Peel the pears and leave the stem on.
- Combine the wine, water, sugar, orange juice, orange peel and spices in a sauce pot large enough to hold the 6 pears snuggly and deep enough so that the pears are covered in the liquid.
- Bring the liquid to a simmer and then gently submerge the pears. Poach the pears until they are tender when pierced with a fork on the bottom. Time will vary depending on the ripeness of the pears (approximately 15-30 minutes).
- If not serving the pears right away, refrigerate them in the syrup. Serve chilled or warmed.
Option to make syrup:
- Remove the pears from the poaching liquid and continue to simmer the liquid until it reduces to a syrup which will coat the back of a spoon. The syrup can be used on the pears, over ice cream, or even as a sauce in a savory dish with fish or seared sea scallops.
To make the sabayon:
- Whisk together all ingredients in a large heat proof bowl. Set the bowl over a pot of simmering water. Do not allow the bottom of the bowl to touch the water.
- Whisk the egg mixture until frothy and it begins to thicken into a thin custard. It should coat the back of a spoon.
Poached pear in red wine.
In 2011, after the earthquake and tsunami in Japan, I was honored to contribute a recipe to a cookbook sold to raise money for disaster relief in Japan. While I posted about the book here, I did not post the recipe. Now, the book is no longer available and it’s time to share the recipe.
The inspiration for this dish came on a flight to Vietnam on Japan Airlines many years ago. One of the on board “snacks” offered were soba noodles, made from buckwheat, and I ordered some without really knowing what I’d be getting (because, noodles). What I got was a little black lacquered box with dipping sauce and noodles, a step up from the most Asian airlines standard cup ‘o soup. I tucked in and was surprised to find the noodles were cold! These noodles were a revelation; they were so refreshing! I know airplane food is not normally inspiring, nor usually the best example of a nation’s cuisine, but these noodles were shockingly good.
When I got home, I wanted to try making them myself and thought it might be nice to combine the noodles with some tofu and beautiful fresh Maitake mushrooms. Of course, you can replace the tofu with the protein of your choice; fish, chicken, or even roasted pork belly.
I recently made this dish again, and while the original recipe (below) is wonderful, it’s also very versatile. This time, instead of using mushrooms, I used fresh cabbage and carrots, which I cut like for coleslaw, and dressed with some of the marinade from the tofu. Then I tossed that mix into the cooked noodles (photo at the bottom of the post).
Some of the ingredients for the noodles
Grilled Marinated Tofu
Cooked Soba Noodles
Cold Soba Noodles with Grilled Tofu
- 1 package soba noodles, (10 ounces or 4 bundles)
- 1 package extra firm tofu, 15 ounces, sliced into 8 pieces
- 1/3 cup soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tablespoon sesame oil
- 1 teaspoon chili garlic paste (Sambal sauce)
- 3 each green onions, sliced thin on the diagonal
- 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted (black, white or both)
- 3.5 ounces Maitake mushrooms
- 1 tablespoon canola oil
- 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
- 1 teaspoon minced garlic
- 1/2 cup soy sauce
- 1 ounce mirin
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1 3/4 cup dashi* broth
- 2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
- *Dashi is Kombu (dried seaweed) plus bonito tuna flakes. It has a smoky flavor. The dashi I have is imported from Japan and comes packaged like tea bags, but there are all different kinds.
- This is not the brand I use, but it is something like this (Amazon affiliate link); Dashi tea bags
Marinate the Tofu:
- In a small bowl, whisk together all the tofu marinade ingredients.
- Slice the tofu into across into 8 even pieces. Pour half of the marinade into a 9'x13' baking dish. Lay the tofu pieces in a single layer across the bottom of the dish and pour the rest of the marinade over the tofu. Let marinate for about 1/2 hour.
Prepare the Dipping Sauce:
- In a medium sized pot, combine all dipping sauce ingredients. Bring to a simmer and allow to cool to room temperature.
- Cook the soba noodles in a large pot of boiling water until tender but still firm. About 6-7 minutes. Rinse vigorously under cool running water to stop them from cooking and remove excess starch.
Prepare the garnishes;
- Slice the green onions. Toast the sesame seeds in a small sauté pan for about 30 seconds. Heat a large sauté pan and add canola oil. Add the minced ginger and minced garlic to the oil and then add the mushrooms and sauté quickly, about 4-5 minutes until they are soft. Put each garnish ingredient in its own bowl.
Grilling the tofu:
- Heat a ridged grill pan. If you don't have a grill pan you can sear the slices of tofu in a hot sauté pan or griddle. Spray the pan with a little oil and then lay down the pieces of tofu on an angle. Cook for about two minutes then, with a spatula, rotate each piece about 45 degrees. After another minute or so, flip them over and repeat. After they are grilled on both sides transfer the cooked pieces to a platter.
To assemble the dish:
- Serve the dipping sauce in small cups. Put a couple of ounces of soba noodles in a bowl and top with green onions, sautéed mushrooms, sesame seeds and a piece or two of grilled tofu. The noodles can be dipped into the broth or small amounts can be poured from the cup over the noodles and mixed in to taste.
You'll most likely have leftover noodles and dipping sauce. This is ok. Undressed they hold up well for lunch the next day.
Toss any leftover noodles with a teaspoon of neutral oil if you want to save and refrigerate them. This will keep them from sticking together.
Soba noodles with cabbage (photo taken on the fly with phone).