How To Make Preserved Meyer Lemons

by formerchef on January 23, 2012

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A gallon of preserved lemons? What was I thinking? The more the merrier? That I wanted to have a big Moroccan themed party and I’d need a lot of preserved lemon? I honestly don’t know. I think it was something along the lines of , “well, if a little is good, then a lot must be great!

I received Paula Wolfort’s gorgeous book, The Food of Morocco as a Christmas gift. The book is not only beautiful, but she takes great pains to explain all about the cuisine and I’m really excited to cook from it.

First things first, I needed to have the basic ingredients and one of the main staples is preserved lemon. They take 30 days to cure so I guess I figured I might as well make enough to share with my mother who herself was given a Moroccan tagine for Christmas.

The recipe calls for 5 lemons. Since I could fit 15 lemons into my gallon jar I just tripled the recipe. All good, right? Not so fast.

I forget to take into account how much extra space there would be in the jar. The original recipe calls for 5 lemons, 1/3  cup salt and 1/2 cup of lemon juice to cover the lemons in what I assume is a quart sized jar which meant I’d need 1.5 cups of juice for my batch. Unfortunately, that amount wasn’t even close. In the end, for my gallon jar, I needed 7 cups of juice to cover the lemons. Good thing I have a tree full of lemons. I also found the lemons kept bobbing up to the top like rubber duckies floating the the bathtub. A few small glass bowls used as weights solved that problem.

Paula Wolfert has this to say about using Meyer lemons. Note, I think she meant “thinner skinned” not “thicker”:

The creme de la creme of Moroccan lemons, the thin skinned doqq, is similar in aroma and flavor to our thicker-skinned American hybrid, the Meyer lemon. Meyer lemons turn extremely soft during preserving, and they make excellent flavoring for olives, salads or brined vegetables or garnish for tagines. California Eureka lemons also work quite well.

If you want to try making your own preserved lemons, I recommend sticking with the original recipe ratio. Perhaps I should have titled this post How (Not) To Make Preserved Lemons…

preparing preserved lemons

The lemons are washed, ends trimmed, and quartered down to 1/4 inch at the base. They are then salted inside, put back together, and placed in the jar with the rest of the salt and lemon juice to cover. They sit in the jar for 30 days, and can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 6 months. To use, remove the lemon from the jar, rinse off the salt and use only the peel of the lemon, not the pulp.

Now all I have to do is wait the 30 days until they are ready and then start cooking! Stay tuned…

 

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Post image for Cannellini Bean Soup With Beef, Roasted Eggplant and Orange Gremolata

Last week was one of the most personally challenging in recent memory. You know the expression “when life hands you lemons…”? Last week, life threw oranges the size of softballs at me. The week included the death of our beloved cat Basil (ode below), a wicked cold which left me gasping for breath (still am), and hurricane force winds (in Los Angeles!) which caused damage to our roof, left debris all over our yard and left us without power for 36 hours, all while I was working extra long hours. Any one of those things alone could leave a girl searching the heavens and asking “Why me?”, yet all together, I just had to laugh (after I stopped crying) and say “Seriously??

The last thing I wanted to do was cook, and for the most part I didn’t. But when I read about the “Souperbowl” challenge my mother and some twitter friends started, my mind kept going to how I could turn this month’s 3 random ingredients into a soup, even in bed at at 4am, listening to the DWP workers outside repair the live power line which had fallen in our back yard (oh yeah, I forgot to mention that one).

Chefs are no stranger to the “mystery box” concept for creating food. This is not just a construct of reality TV, this is how I created many a nightly special when I was a chef. I’d go into the walk-in refrigerator in the restaurant and see what needed to move that day or what I’d bought as a seasonal special and create something out of it with whatever else I had on hand. I got pretty good at it and was successful most of the time. To this day, I regularly do this for dinner out of my own fridge and pantry.

This first Souperbowl Challenge was to make a soup which contained the following ingredients picked at random; orange peel, beans, eggplant with an Italian theme. I felt the orange peel would be the stickler in the recipe so I started with that. The first thing which came to mind was gremolata, the traditional garnish for ossobuco, made from lemon zest, chopped parsley and garlic. Then I thought about an osso buco type stew, but I really wanted a broth based soup and fortunately found some home made beef broth in my freezer when the power went out.

Eventually I settled on a soup with beef, cannellini beans, and roasted eggplant chunks and was thrilled with the way it came out. It cooks it about an hour, which is nice if you are in a hurry. Finally, while I enjoyed the beef in this dish, I think it could be left out and made with vegetable stock for a flavorful and hearty vegetarian/vegan soup.

Cannellini Bean Soup with Beef, Roasted Eggplant and Orange Gremolata

 

Cannellini Bean Soup With Beef, Roasted Eggplant and Orange Gremolata Recipe
Printable recipe in PDF

1 regular large eggplant (about 1 lb), cut into 1″ cubes
1.5 lbs chuck roast, cut into 1″ cubes
3 Tbsp olive oil
2 small onions (8 oz), small dice
2 carrots (8 oz), small dice
2 stalks celery (5 oz), small dice
1 Tbsp minced garlic
1 tsp dried thyme
1 Tbsp dried basil
8 cups of beef stock
2 cans cannellini beans (15.5 oz cans or 3 cups cooked beans), drained and rinsed*
salt and pepper

*I used canned beans because I could not find dried cannellini and I had limited time. You could certainly use dried, though the soup will have to cook much longer unless you cook the beans separately first.

Orange Gremolata:
1 bunch Italian (flat leaf) parsley, chopped fine
1 tsp minced garlic
2 oranges, grated zest only (about 2.5 Tbsp zest)
Combine all ingredients in a small bowl.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Cut the eggplant into 1 inch cubes and toss with 2 Tbsp of the olive oil. Spread the eggplant out evenly on a sheet pan. When the oven is hot, put the eggplant in to roast until it’s browned, about 25 minutes. When it’s done, set it aside; it will be added to the soup at the end to maintain its form and texture.

Cannellini Bean Soup with Beef, Roasted Eggplant and Orange Gremolata

While the eggplant is roasting, cut up the beef and vegetables and get all the other soup ingredients ready.

Heat a large, heavy bottomed, soup pot (I’ve had the All Clad 6 qt stock pot shown in these photos for over a decade, and I love it). Add the remaining 1 Tbsp of olive oil to the pot and add in the diced beef. Season with a couple of pinches of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cook until the beef begins to brown.

Cannellini Bean Soup with Beef, Roasted Eggplant and Orange Gremolata

Add in the diced carrots, onions and celery and cook until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add in the minced garlic and dried herbs and cook for another 2 minutes.

Pour in the 8 cups of beef stock and bring to a simmer. Add the drained and rinsed beans and let simmer gently for 20-30 minutes. You don’t want this to boil rapidly because you run the risk of the cooked beans breaking. If you get any foam (from the fat in the beef) just skim it off with a ladle.

Right before you are ready to serve the soup, stir in the roasted eggplant.

Garnish each bowl of soup with a teaspoon of orange gremolata.

Orange Gremolata

 

Ode to Basil 2001-2011

Basil 2001-2011

Basil 2001-2011

My husband found Basil, along with his sister Rosemary, when they were about six weeks old, in our back yard under a rosemary bush. He called me at work and said, “Honey…” and I knew that was it.

Basil was a special boy; very loving, inquisitive and playful. He is the only cat I’ve ever know to actively ask for play and was always waiting at the door when I came home from work. He would also start in the kitchen, work up to a full gallop though the house, into our bedroom, and run across our heads at 4am if he didn’t think there was enough food in his bowl. We started putting out food before bed. Did I tell you he was smart? He had us well trained.

Back in August I wrote a post about life’s priorities when Basil needed surgery to remove his left eye because there was a mass behind it. The surgery went well, but he never fully recovered. The tumor they removed turned out to be cancer; lymphoma. We decided to try treatment (chemotherapy) and while some of it helped a little, he never went into remission and continued to decline. Last week he suddenly lost control of his back legs which the vet said was neurological and not something from which he would recover. It was then we decided with very heavy hearts the fight was over.

Basil is greatly missed for his big purrs, spotted belly, five foot leaps in play, lap naps, and the unconditional love  he gave us every day he was here.

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Cranberry Vanilla Bean Syrup, a Compote and a Cocktail

November 22, 2011
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Lately I’ve had an obsession with vanilla beans. Don’t ask me why, I just think everything tastes better with a little real vanilla bean added to it. This is coming from someone who has always been a chocolate girl at heart. While chocolate is my longtime love, vanilla beans are my latest crush. Unlike adding vanilla extract, using the fresh bean will actually perfume your food. You will smell the vanilla before you taste it.

I wanted to make a holiday inspired syrup as a mix-in to use with my SodaStream soda. Then of course, I thought “Who doesn’t need want a cocktail on Thanksgiving?” In my family, it’s become tradition to start a large meal with an ice cold shot of gin so the cocktail is an homage to that traditional as well.

Finally, the compote was simply an unexpected bonus. I wasn’t really thinking about what I’d …

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Apple Cider Roasted Carrots with Rosemary and Nutmeg

November 14, 2011
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Thanksgiving has always been my favorite holiday, probably because it’s all about food and there’s no gift buying pressure.

Our family’s Thanksgiving tradition is a little different from most. It started back when my mother was a young graduate student at Berkely in the early 70′s. I remember it clearly and I couldn’t have been more than 4 years old at the time. We had about 25 people over to dinner and they were all “friends and orphans” with no family in the area and nowhere else to go. We didn’t have a lot of money, but somehow my mom managed to put on an amazing feast.
Over the years little has changed. We still have somewhere between 15 and 25 people at dinner, mostly friends and sometimes the occasional relative. The players have evolved to be a greater proportion my generation’s “friends and orphans” but the love and familial …

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Favorite Food Experiences From Japan Part 3; Markets and Food Halls

November 11, 2011
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This is the last installment in a three part series on some of my favorite food experiences in Tokyo and Kyoto Japan. If you missed it, make sure you check out part 1,  Noodles, Unagi and Tempura and Tonkatsu and part 2, Yakatori; Izakaya, Sushi, and Okonomiyaki. This post will focus on the incredible and diverse markets and food halls in Tokyo and Kyoto.

Tokyo Tsukiji Fish Market

If people know you are interested in food and going to Tokyo, they always say “You have to go to the fish market early in the morning!” This was always part of our plan, but we were in Tokyo a mere 6 weeks after the earthquake and tsunami of march 2011, and we’d heard that the vendors, some of whom don’t like tourists in the market, had been lobbying to keep sightseers out all together. That, combined with recent changes to the …

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Cardamom Spiced Persimmon Ice Cream

November 3, 2011
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We have an ongoing battle surrounding our persimmon tree with the squirrels in our neighborhood.

It’s actually pretty simple; they eat the persimmons, sometimes tossing them aside after only a few bites, and we shake our fists at them, yell, and sometimes cry. It’s quite sad, but only for us. I think the squirrels are fairly happy with the deal.

To add insult to injury, it seems that our persimmon tree only bears a substantial amount of fruit every other year. In the bountiful years it’s not uncommon for us to get buckets of fruit, 50-75 pounds of it, so much that we are giving it away and don’t notice the squirrel consumption. In the “off” years, we get nary a persimmon with the squirrels eating any and all of the meager amount of fruit on the tree. This is one of those years where the humans did not get a single

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